OUT OF EDEN WALK

Yo-yoing up and down the branching stairwells of “Shanghai” — a lively Baku enclave named after the teeming, faraway Asian city. The hillside settlement, densely packed, and overlooking the Caspian Sea, once was a multiethnic hub for railroad and factory workers, including ethnic Armenians who fled at the outbreak of the Nagorno-Karabakh war. The neighborhood now houses many Azerbaijani refugees displaced by that same conflict.