OUT OF EDEN WALK

A monument to the complexity of Baku’s history. In the early 20th century, the site was a graveyard for the combatants—Azerbaijanis, Armenians, Bolsheviks, Mensheviks, British soldiers—who fought messy battles for control of the oil-rich city. When the Communists gained control, they destroyed the cemetery and erected an amusement park on top. After gaining independence from the Soviet Union, Azerbaijan bulldozed that park and reestablished the site as a national cemetery.