OUT OF EDEN WALK

We camp in the wilds of exurbia. Banounah draws a protective circle around my tarp, reciting Koranic prayers. In the morning, he places a tiny kettle on a tiny stove and brews tea. He is also carrying, I discover, two electrical wall socket adaptors, a signaling mirror, three carabiners, shower slippers, a bulky alarm clock, a can of peanuts, a sewing kit, two compasses, and Bedouin date pastries. Thirty pounds of gear. “My equipment” — he says unapologetically — “makes me feel safe.”