Every hundred miles Paul Salopek pauses to record the landscape and a person he meets, assembling a global snapshot of humankind. TEST 2
Every hundred miles Paul Salopek pauses to record the landscape and a person he meets, assembling a global snapshot of humankind. TEST 2
Every hundred miles Paul Salopek pauses to record the landscape and a person he meets, assembling a global snapshot of humankind. TEST 2
There was a war. For the first time in 3,000 miles, the walk is blocked by fear, by anger, by paranoia. Armed Kurdish villagers mistake us for marauders from Syria, for the psychotic Islamic State militia. They detain us. They threaten to shoot walking guide Murat Yazar. We must truck the pack mule away — right past the next Milestone. We have to return in a taxi. Winter is coming. Some sort of umbilical is cut. We are just going through the motions.
A wraparound soundscape at this Milestone
This Milestone’s location on a map
Photos of the ground under Paul’s feet and the sky above at this Milestone
A brief question and answer with the first person Paul meets at this Milestone
Muyehatim Ayi
Taxi driver, age 50
Who are you?
Muyehatim Ayi.
Where do you come from?
[Pause.] From Bitlis.
Where are you going?
[He looks away.] We have been living in fear in this area, so we can’t talk openly. [Long pause.] We aren’t comfortable being open.
A video showing the landscape around this Milestone
To comment, log in using one of the options below. If you don’t have an account, write your comment, enter your name and email address, and select “I’d rather post as a guest.” Paul may respond, so keep an eye out.